Mmmm... Bali

Foot seems to have used to the week off to get its recovery on. Also on--the Bali sickness!

Last night was one of "those" sessions. Paddled out about 5pm to one of the breaks on the beach in front of the villa. It's called "Old Mans" as its a really good long board break (I'm assuming Bill will have some snarky comment at some point about this). Note to non-surfers:  All the young kids have to ride shortboards (and snear at LBs), rock tattoos, dye their hair, try to look like they are in hiphop group and generally look like they need a smack--goddamn whippersnappers, why can't these punks just get jobs?

So, grandpa busted out the 8'0" for the first time since the Philippines and paddled out with two other folks from the camp. We had the peak all to ourselves for most of the session. We're in another bit of a lull until a new, bigger swell hits tomorrow. But there were some fun, powerful shoulder high sets that came through that offered up long, long rides. And I kept having to remind myself that I would kill for a session like that at home at moments I was wishing it was a little bigger or more consistent.

As the sun went down where the water met the horizon, it formed a rainbow arcing above us out of the showers that were hitting the shore (but not us). The air was crystal clear to the northeast and we had a clear view of the big volcano. It was insanely beautiful. We were all joking we just needed a floating warung (the local term for the cafe/bar/restaurant) serving up ice cold beers. And some dolphins. Or better yet, dolphins serving up ice cold beers.

This morning, had a 5am wake to go to Uluwatus Secret. Such a gorgeous, gorgeous setting below a hundred foot cliff face, deep blue water and powerful waves. There were some very large sets that rolled through, but mostly head high stuff. I got off to a great start, had a lull in the middle of the session caused by poor wave selection, a bunch of nimrods who had no business being out there floating dangerously in the take off zone, and two really good surfers who nailed everything that came through leaving the rest of us what was left. I got two gorgeous waves to end the session so it all worked out ok.  We also a flyover by two US naval choppers and then a drive by frigate. Obama is there for the summit next week and I guess he's got the Navy out scoping good breaks for him.

Getting out was a chore. The tide had really come up and we had to paddle back a long way over the reef that we had hiked over but was now submerged, watching our backs for occasional sets that came barreling through. I was worked by the time I got out.