Let's Go to the Video

The replacement GoPro has been finally procured. Some early footage above. And yes, as is probably evident by my expression, I am literally thinking "oh crap" as I drop into that first one, realizing I'm too deep... The GoPro doesn't really capture size very well but if you check out my line of sight up the to the top of the wave, you can get an idea...

Dreamlands

Yesterday we went to a break called Dreamlands. Well named. That's me dropping in on a walled up piece of loveliness that went on forever. There were only five of us on this peak most of the morning. Just down the coast from very famous breaks Uluwatu, Padang, Impossibles and Bingin (all of which can be seen breaking from the lineup), our guide says Dreamlands never gets too crowded. It needs to be big to work and involves parking in a resort. So, the hardcore go the aftermentioned breaks, avoid the parking, and beginners don't come here because it's too big. I hope we get to go back. I had to conserve energy as I was just beginning to feel better after recovering from Bali Belly, so had to make sure every wave counted. I also got to expend some energy after getting caught inside on a huge rogue set that caught all of us off guard--probably the most heavy extended washing machine treatment of the trip so far. By the 4th wave, I think we had all been practically swept back to shore.

Evening was another session at Old Mans, below. The German guy I've been surfing with, Fabian (who looks like a 6 foot version of Dirk Novitsky), observed its funny its called Old Man's, because sometimes the drop here can be fast and steep depending on the tide. A rain shower had come through late afternoon, calmed the offshore winds, and turned the water to class. Some fun sets came through and I found an uncrowded corner taking right-handers, of which I think I'd only had one since arriving in Bali.

Tonight, the biggest swell since I've been here is supposed to hit so we're all hoping for a great dawn session tomorrow morning.

Mmmm... Bali

Foot seems to have used to the week off to get its recovery on. Also on--the Bali sickness!

Last night was one of "those" sessions. Paddled out about 5pm to one of the breaks on the beach in front of the villa. It's called "Old Mans" as its a really good long board break (I'm assuming Bill will have some snarky comment at some point about this). Note to non-surfers:  All the young kids have to ride shortboards (and snear at LBs), rock tattoos, dye their hair, try to look like they are in hiphop group and generally look like they need a smack--goddamn whippersnappers, why can't these punks just get jobs?

So, grandpa busted out the 8'0" for the first time since the Philippines and paddled out with two other folks from the camp. We had the peak all to ourselves for most of the session. We're in another bit of a lull until a new, bigger swell hits tomorrow. But there were some fun, powerful shoulder high sets that came through that offered up long, long rides. And I kept having to remind myself that I would kill for a session like that at home at moments I was wishing it was a little bigger or more consistent.

As the sun went down where the water met the horizon, it formed a rainbow arcing above us out of the showers that were hitting the shore (but not us). The air was crystal clear to the northeast and we had a clear view of the big volcano. It was insanely beautiful. We were all joking we just needed a floating warung (the local term for the cafe/bar/restaurant) serving up ice cold beers. And some dolphins. Or better yet, dolphins serving up ice cold beers.

This morning, had a 5am wake to go to Uluwatus Secret. Such a gorgeous, gorgeous setting below a hundred foot cliff face, deep blue water and powerful waves. There were some very large sets that rolled through, but mostly head high stuff. I got off to a great start, had a lull in the middle of the session caused by poor wave selection, a bunch of nimrods who had no business being out there floating dangerously in the take off zone, and two really good surfers who nailed everything that came through leaving the rest of us what was left. I got two gorgeous waves to end the session so it all worked out ok.  We also a flyover by two US naval choppers and then a drive by frigate. Obama is there for the summit next week and I guess he's got the Navy out scoping good breaks for him.

Getting out was a chore. The tide had really come up and we had to paddle back a long way over the reef that we had hiked over but was now submerged, watching our backs for occasional sets that came barreling through. I was worked by the time I got out.

A Restful Week

Today was the first day I’ve surfed in 5 days.

Part of that was due to lousy conditions. That prompted Lizzie and I to head up north to a little hamlet called Balian. The spot had come highly recommended by a couple from Santa Cruz I met in Balangan (he was a glasser and had worked for the shop that glassed one of my boards).  The story was that Balian is super peaceful, nestled in rice paddies and located along the coast in such a way to pick up swell that wasn’t hitting the south.  All of that was true.

Each day, the surf got a little bigger, building from 2-3 feet on Tuesday to 8-10 by Friday. Sadly, my injured foot kept me out of the water the entire time.  Even walking was painful so I dedicated myself to rest which wasn’t so bad once I accepted it. 

The surf did look really fun though—big and powerful but not too steep and crazy. The break was right in front of a river mouth. And it poured several times we were there—I mean, pouring for hours and hours. Get your ark stuff. Which meant lots of stuff flowing out into ocean and you know what likes that… One of the guides from our former camp saw a shark out there 2 days in a row. And then a guide at my new camp here in Canggu said it’s not just (harmless) reef sharks—there are bull sharks up there. And there have a been a few attacks, which is very rare in Bali as a whole.  Needless to say, that stuff about Balian is hush hush and not on the brochures.   

That aside, Balian is a pretty amazing oasis. While obviously the Aussies have discovered it, there are only 4 or 5 small villas there at all so it can only get so crowded. Development seems to be happening slowly for now at least. And if the Balinese are just a ridiculously nice people in general, there are beyond nice in Balian. Every single person you pass smiled at you with 1000 watts. Everyone seems excited you are there. Our little place was overbooked and we actually had to spend one night in the house of our hotelier, which was an experience (largely because that was the night of the worst rain and we were sorta trapped inside).

In the small world category: Three Americans turn up at the small place we stayed. One of them says, “You look familiar. Do you surf?” Yes. “Do you surf Bolinas?” Turns out they are from Mill Valley, born and raised.  How crazy is that? Since I was hobbled and there weren’t great boards for rent, I offered the guy use of my Mystic. He was stoked. He was even more stoked after his 3 hour session and was raving about the Mystic. I’m sure—that wave just looked perfect for that board.

Now down south again at Canggu, the next camp. Vaguely surprised I made it. I’ve pretty much become numb to the driving here, but yesterday was truly hair-raising. The roads here are barely two lane but are driven as though they are four. There are schools of scooters, trucks, buses, mayhem. Our driver made repeated accelerations around huge trucks and buses into blind corners. On numerous occasions, it seemed he didn’t see the onrushing wall of hot metal death and sort of “woke up” in time to lurch back behind whatever we’d been trying to pass. I understand there are 8 scooter fatalities a week here.  Not surprising one little bit. Safer to go rub yourself in meat and swim at Balian.

Scene here is very surf campy.  Everybody (not me) went out last night and got hammered, returning around 4am. I woke up early thanks to the loud return of my fellow guests.  The foot felt ready to test and so I headed out to beat the crowds. There is a short walk to the beach with several breaks right here.

I scored a bunch of really fun waves this morning—big, thick waves with very long, walled up open faces. Not very technical and an easy drop which meant they were great waves to practice cuts and turns on, since you weren’t trying to survive a nasty closeout.  It was so good to be back in the water (even though this water is really gross due to a lot of run off—definitely a bummer after all the pristine reefs I’ve been surfing).

Wrapping Up A Week in Balangan

Almost a week down in Bali. It's felt a lot more busy than Siargao. In part, because surfing here has involved a drive to a break most days, sometimes two times a day. So, you end up spending around 2 hours in back and forth per session, plus 2-3 for the session... you can do the math. Barely time for naps. Plus, the bigger surf group (some Brits, Germans, Italians, my friend Lizzie from SF) has meant more social hang out time than the lazy afternoons in a hammock in the 'pines.

After my dismal outing last reported at White Rock, I returned the next day and had some success. The first 45 minutes were more of the same, but I tried to really study what the waves were doing, how the current was pulling us down the reef, where/how people were getting into them, and harnessing my frustration and turning it into a commitment to charge over the edge. It finally started clicking. It required taking late, steep drop ins, over a fairly shallow reef that got more shallow as you went down the line. But once I'd made a couple, I found a good rhythm and caught waves until I literally couldn't paddle out one more time. Totally stoked. I was exhausted going up the long climb up the cliff (White Rock has a steep set of stairs carved into the cliff that goes on forever--reportedly 200 steps. I haven't counted. The day before I was so frustrated, I turned it into a punishing cardio workout and probably got my heart up to 170 or so... Supris, one of the Balinese kids who guide us, was clearly determined to stay with me but I could here him wheezing and gasping about halfway up. He finally stopped to "admire the view" near the top. He's a great surfer, but I don't seem him racing bikes.)

We came back the next day. Conditions were less consistent and it was back to frustration. I caught one good wave, fell off of two, and chickened out of one monster to my backside. I eventually paddled in and enjoyed the setting sun lighting up the gorgeous reef at the end of the world. I could also see why I'd been struggling. Where I'd been fighting the current was a lot of big, closeout surf. Our guide Jessi paddled in (who I saw take several severe beatings on the many closeouts that were on order for the day) and asked how it had gone. I said poorly. She responded, "Well, that's surfing isn't it? The bad days make the good ones seem that much sweeter."

The next morning, I woke up literally at the first light cracked the horizon. I waxed my board and headed for the beach. Incredibly, I was still the second person to make the line up. It was probably the best day here at Balagan so far, which is not saying much. I had two of the best sessions of my life here last year, but the surf has been quite different. Still, there were really clean, glassy, fast breaking waves peeling off the reef, mostly waist high but very occasionally shoulder-to-head high. The drop in was so fast... and almost every wave turned into a quick close out at some point... the only question was where. It happened so fast you were sure to get a minor to major beating. I dropped in on one of the largest waves to roll through, a bit hastily and a bit deep. The drop was lighting fast and the face was practically vertical. It felt like I had only a few inches of my inside rail actually in the wave (which I'm sure was actually the case). It was a bit overhead as I hit the trough and I could see it feathering above me--I thought I might be about to get barreled. Instead, with dismay I saw the face bowl up about 15 feet in front of me and the hole thing closed out as I was pulling in up the face (to get my fantasy barrel). I wish I had video of that it was a beating worth sharing. Anyway, it was a fun session with a nice haul of racy little waves and a relatively relaxed vibe after the bigger, more challenging stuff we've been surfing all week.

In the afternoon, we went into Kuta, the tourist stronghold of Bali. Picked up some board shorts, got a good massage and strolled around for an hour being reminded how much Kuta sucks. Careening scooters, drunken foreign idiots, 5 foot wide alleys with mult-directional traffic, ominpresent touts selling stuff, dirt, noise, yuck. Bali seems even busier than I remember and there is development happening everywhere. I hope the Balinese are getting their piece of the pie, but I've been told its largely Chinese investors who are making all the money.

Today has been a lazy day of rest, recovery and Bin Tang. Balangan is dead flat. The foot has gotten pretty sore again, not so much from surfing I think but rather from the long hikes up and down cliffs to get to the breaks.

Tomorrow, we're up at dawn for a morning session. Then I leave Balangan and head north to a small hamlet called Balian. A couple from Santa Cruz who were staying here raved about the place and said it was a incredibly peaceful place. And the coastal set up tends to amplify whatever small swell is in the water so hopefully there will be some good waves up there.

Random Snacks Hall of Fame

Yup, those are fish.

Back in Bali

If you look at a map, you would think getting from Siargao to Bali would be easy. Not so much. Itinerary:

Sunday
4:30am wake up
5:30am ferry to Surigao island (3 hours)
1pm Fly to Cebu (4 hour layover, 1 hour flight)
8pm Cebu to HK (painless 2.5 hour flight, painful 6 hour layover)
HK (sleep in airport hotel, as I have a 10 hour layover)

Monday
10am depart for Bali, 5 hour flight.

I finally arrived at the surf lodge around 4pm Monday afternoon. The funny thing about the lodge is that isn't not on the beach, like the one I booked. In fact, it's not what I booked. After more logistics, it was arranged that I would transfer the next day to the right place.

I'm now settling into how nice it is to be back in Bali. The people here are, if anything, even nicer than I remembered. So much laughter, so many smiles. The surf hasn't been great, in fact a lot of folks are downright dejected as its about as flat as Bali gets. It means the breaks that are working are crowded, and without good size you've got rank beginners in lineups where normally they'd be getting pounded and swept into shore. I'm not worried as I've got enough time. And there are still waves to be had if you are patient, waves that would make your day back home.

Yesterday, we had a 5am wakeup call in a rainstorm to go to a "secret spot" near Uluwatu. It required climbing down a cliff, through a cave and along a low tide reef for about half a mile. But when we got there, the five of us had it all to ourselves. Throughout the trek were the little prayer baskets and burning incense that are a staple of Bali, which just lent to the atmosphere. I caught a coupla fun waves but it was definitely inconsistent. The rain stopped but it was overcast for most of our session. While it was still plenty warm for me, the Balinese guides with us were frozen, their teeth chattering despite layering up with double rashguards. They kept trying to convince us it was time for breakfast ("Yum, pancakes") but no one was buying it. More waves, please.

Midway through the session one of the guides told me I needed a shorter board, I was too good to be riding the board I was on. That was nice to hear, even though I would prove him wrong (see below about our afternoon session). At one point, he saw me fail to make it around a section of one wave and said, "Kiernan, you need to make speed faster. Make speed faster!" We were all cracking up in the lineup about that one. I later told him that he should spin his arms around while we waited for the sets, that way he could "make warm faster."

In the afternoon, we drove south to the end of the Bukit pennisula to a place that picks up any swell around. The conditions were actually pretty fun, lots of head high and above waves that hollowed up as the session went on. I surfed horribly and always seemed to be in the wrong spot and bungled it the few times I was. I finally paddled in rather than let the surf gods continue to mock me and sat on a gorgeous, virtually empty white sand beach and watched better surfers than I carve it up in the azure water.

Time to get ready for the days session. Heading back to the scene of my lameness yesterday. There is supposed to be a big swell coming in next week, but big here means BIG so we'll see how that all works out.

Something I'm learning about surf trips and surfing in general is you really have to assume nothing. You can get skunked with bad surf even in Indo; you can get effectively shut out by surf that's too big (e.g. the daily beatings Chris and I took in Costa Rica earlier this year). You can paddle out on a day without promise and the winds shift, things line up and it turns into a dream. And while I've had some great sessions in my travels so far, and some of the best waves of my life, nothing beats having a magic day at your home breaks with your local crew.

Wherever you are, whatever your plan, you never really know when the ocean is going to give you those magic sessions, you just have to keep showing up and waiting for it all to come together.